Spaghetti and (Great) MeatballsButtermilk-soaked bread is the key to meatballs with a soft, creamy interior and a pleasantly rich, tangy flavor.The Problem: One of the problems with meatballs is that they're thought of as smaller, rounder versions of hamburgers. This would be fine if meatballs were generally cooked to rare or medium-rare, as most hamburgers are, but meatballs are often cooked through till well-done. This can leave them flavorless, dry, and dense. Consequently, they need some help to lighten their texture.The Goal: What we were after was nothing short of great meatballs: crusty and dark brown on the outside, soft and moist on the inside.The Solution: Milk does wonderful things for meatballs, especially when mixed to a paste with fresh bread crumbs. Still better is buttermilk which, delivers a delicious flavor. Eggs are also important for texture and flavor; their fats and emulsifiers add moistness and richness. Egg yolks alone work best; the whites just make the mixture sticky and hard to handle, with no benefits. Another contribution to the flavor dimension can be gotten by adding some ground pork to the usual ground beef (usually chuck); we found 1 part pork to 3 parts beef to be about right. Pan-frying (as opposed to broiling, which dried out the meatballs) is the best way to brown the meatballs, an important tip being to wait till the oil is quite hot before first adding the meatballs to the pan.Classic Spaghetti and MeatballsThis streamlined recipe can be on the table in under an hour. Serves 4 to 6 Meatballs2 slices white sandwich bread (crusts discarded), torn into small cubes 1/2 cup buttermilk or 6 tablespoons plain yogurt thinned with 2 tablespoons sweet milk 3/4 pound ground beef chuck ( or 1 pound if omitting ground pork below) 1/4 pound ground pork (to be mixed with ground chuck) 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves 1 large egg yolk 1 small clove garlic , minced (1 teaspoon) 3/4 teaspoon table salt Ground black pepper vegetable oil for pan-frying (about 1 1/4 cups) Simple Tomato Sauce2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1 can (28 ounces) crushed tomatoes 1 tablespoon minced fresh basil leaves Table salt and ground black pepper 1 pound spaghetti grated Parmesan cheese 1. For the meatballs: Combine bread and buttermilk in small bowl, mashing occasionally with fork, until smooth paste forms, about 10 minutes. 2. Mix all meatball ingredients, including bread mixture and pepper to taste in medium bowl. Lightly form 3 tablespoons of mixture into 1 1/2-inch round meatballs; repeat with remaining mixture to form approximately 14 meatballs. (Compacting them can make the meatballs dense and hard. Can be placed on large plate, covered loosely with plastic wrap, and refrigerated for several hours.) 3. Bring 4 quarts of water to boil in large pot for cooking pasta. 4. Meanwhile, heat 1/4 -inch vegetable oil over medium-high heat in 10- or 11-inch sauté pan. When edge of meatball dipped in oil sizzles, add meatballs in single layer. Fry, turning several times, until nicely browned on all sides, about 10 minutes, regulating heat as needed to keep oil sizzling but not smoking. Transfer browned meatballs to paper towel--lined plate; set aside. Repeat, if necessary, with remaining meatballs. 5. For the sauce, discard oil in pan, leaving behind any browned bits. Add olive oil along with garlic; sauté, scraping up any browned bits, just until garlic is golden, about 30 seconds. Add tomatoes, bring to boil, and simmer gently until sauce thickens, about 10 minutes. Stir in basil; add salt and pepper to taste. Add meatballs and simmer, turning them occasionally, until heated through, about 5 minutes. Keep warm over low flame.6. Meanwhile, add 1 tablespoon salt and pasta to boiling water. Cook until al dente, drain, and return to pot. Ladle several large spoonfuls of tomato sauce (without meatballs) over spaghetti and toss until noodles are well coated. Divide pasta among individual bowls and top each with a little more tomato sauce and 2 to 3 meatballs. Serve immediately with grated cheese passed separately. STEP BY STEP: Making Meatballs 1. Mash the bread cubes and buttermilk together with a fork. Let stand, mashing occasionally, until a smooth paste forms, about 10 minutes. 2. Once all the ingredients for the meatballs are in the bowl, mix with a fork to roughly combine. At this point, use your hands to make sure that the flavorings are evenly distributed throughout the mixture. 3. Meatballs must be browned well on all sides. This may involve standing meatballs on their sides near the end of the cooking process. If necessary, lean them up against each other to get the final sides browned.
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